Hillbillies, as you may know, often drink from jugs marked XXX. See also Alcohol.
Benihana founder also known for an affected Jheri curl, posing for photos in the hot tub of his stretch Rolls Royce, founding a porn magazine, winning a national backgammon championship, racing cross-country in a stretch VW Bug, and being the first person to cross the Pacific in a hot air balloon. He was also given a wrestling scholarship, but lost it for breaking opponents' noses and legs.
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I know a perpetually crying baby is no laughing matter, but for me the phrase always conjures up images of those mean cartoon babies who wear stubble and smoke cigar.